French cuisine in Munich, The Two with the truffle slicer


In football, the referee has only a few seconds time to detect after a Foul, an advantage of the situation and to allow play to continue. In real life, it can sometimes take years for a challenge and a benefit is what the Alsatian winegrower’s son Fabrice Kieffer is the best proof. As he was umgesäbelt with fourteen years of evil, and with a double fracture of the leg, on the turf remained, seemed to be not only a promising ball sports career, but a whole life destroyed. Kieffer had been taken care of in the youth teams of Racing Strasbourg for a splash and a young professional contract with Girondins Bordeaux and signed, he played in the French youth national teams, with the later Bayern-Munich-players Willy Sagnol and Bixente Lizarazu and was now a football God hotel management students.

Jakob Strobel y Serra

Deputy head of the cultural pages.

F. A. Z.

The advantage after the Foul has been set for Fabrice Kieffer in the shape of a restaurant in the city centre of Munich, which he opened six years ago, together with the chef Johann rappenglück and double-entendre named “Les Deux” – because of the two owners, and because of the two concepts on two floors: on The ground floor there is a Brasserie cuisine, in the first floor of the classic French Haute Cuisine, the Michelin star and the Gault-Millau seventeen points. Here you sit on a tribune, but in a glassed-in triangle, the boldly into the schäffler passage extends, and at noon as in the evening, a stimulating spectacle.

With self-irony against vanity

For one, you can study the better stands of Munich, chosen as the “Les Deux” of their homes, and make every effort to fill the one or the other stereotype about the upper Bavarian Bussi-Bussi-Hautevolée with truth. And on the other you can marvel at Mr. Kieffer, as he copes with a spring in their step on the tightrope, equally Patron, Maître, tamer and master of ceremonies, a friend of its guests, the non-micronized plump with you brother, the good spirit of his restaurant, in spite of its omnipresence anyone on the spirit, a rebirth of Sean Connery in middle-aged, fortify yourself with the shield of self-irony, against the seductions of vanity, and only when the opportunity arises, en passant, he has won all the awards for the best Maître Germany-most recently, for the first time in this category, awarded the price of the Michelin.

This comes in very handy for the kitchen of the clear introver animal more Rappenglück as elegant, as the appearance of his Compagnons. Rappenglück was like Kieffer for many years in Heinz Winkler’s Residenz in Aschau and thinks, despite various stations in southern tip houses in a dream not to shake the Holy laws of the French high cuisine. Welcome and the same as the first proof of this there is a pumpkin cream soup with salmon trout tartare in a coat made of deep-fried La Ratte potato strips, and then – and then-but not of the suspicion of a culinary nationalism suspend – an open commitment to the culinary eclecticism in the form of a gallo-Japanese Tête-à-tête from Hamachi, Avocado cream, wine, peach, Noilly Prat reduction and cucumber rolls-garden, where everything is surrounded by a noodle lemon grass and ginger cream highly decorative circular.

Such Koketterien with the world kitchen, however, remain the exception. The fried scallop is placed on a throne made of Couscous, wasteful with truffle snow decorated and Madeira foam flowing like an absolutist Monarch from the ermine coat. The culinary Ancien Régime, this is the Alte Pinakothek on the plate and the flavors tired, so plump, so lust, that you want all the vegetables-herbs-and-tubers-avant-garde in the current top-of-the kitchen briefly to the compost heap of cooking history. Also with the Icelandic halibut you might have to do something else, or but him as Johann Rappenglück roast, and poach, and otherwise completely alone speak with a restrained chorus from pass to Pierre-algae, cherry tomato Ragout and Pommery-mustard sauce.